|
The
Inner Islands
by
Bland Simpson
photography by
Ann Cary Simpson
Lost
Carolina islands are restored by crisp photos and text
by David Rolfe, Winston-Salem
Journal
Sunday, December 31, 2006
Behind
North Carolina's barrier islands are a scattering of lesser-known "inner
islands." Some, like Roanoke Island, are large enough to support
small communities. Others once held a building or two but are now disappearing,
worn to nothing by wind and waves, and some have all but vanished. Many
of these islets had names I have heard before - Durant, Knotts, Mackay
and Monkey Islands - but histories I never knew.
Bland Simpson's
Inner Islands: A Carolinian's Sound Country Chronicle is an introduction
to the islands, stringing together their histories with memoirs of Simpson's
own visits to the islands over the years. A few bear the ruins of houses,
clubs or docks for vanished enterprises. Some will not survive above
the waters of the sounds for much longer.
Nearly
all of the inner islands can be reached only by boat. Some, such as
Shell Castle Island, Harbor Island and a shoal once known as Brant Island
(today the resting place of the ferry Governor Scott) are places I would
like to visit if I had a boat and a knowledgeable guide.
The book
is illustrated by vintage photographs and drawings of the islands in
earlier times. Simpson's wife, Ann Cary Simpson, made the black-and-white
photographs depicting the islands in their current state. Many of her
photographs are intriguing views of ruined walls and shady maritime
forests that left me wishing for more.
The first
photograph in the book is a mysterious black-and-white image of oddly
round stones scattered about a grassy spit of obviously low-lying land,
with water filling the horizon. The stones are nearly all that remains
of Shell Castle Island, an 18th-century warehouse complex that once
stood on the tiny shell island in the middle of the Ocracoke inlet.
Ocean-going
vessels would offload their cargo at Shell Castle for transport across
the shallow sound by smaller boats, and it did a thriving business until
it was wiped out by a hurricane in 1846.
Another
evocative set of photographs is of Harbor Island, to accompany Simpson's
equally evocative descriptive style:
Harbor
Island is a scant half-acre of bone-white shellbank curving away to
east and west, with a tabby-walled huntclub ruin at the western side
of what little landmass it has. This island stands small - it does
not loom - a diminutive ghostly ruin that conjures images of lochside
castles in Ireland, of old stone barns and roofless farmsteads glimpsed
by travelers from far across the endless barrens of Iceland, perhaps
even the fabled house of Roan Innish, or, down Beaufort way, the old
fish plant's brick chimney on Phillips Island beside the channel of
the Newport River. I first saw Harbor Island and its ruin on a clear,
near-still August evening just after sunset nearly ten years ago,
from the hurricane deck of Wilbur's Camp on soundside Core Banks.
It lay about three miles distant from the camp, but scarcely seemed
in that brilliant clarity more than one mile away, and my small binoculars
brought the ruin right in close for inspection.
Why,
I wondered, was this tumbled-in lodge more intriguing to me than if
it had been whole and still functioning at its early-twentieth-century
level, when tycoons and mere mortals alike showed up out here for
some of the best gunning in the Carolina east?
Simpson's
book is a love song to the ephemeral inner islands, the vanished lives
they have harbored and seen pass, and the essential brevity and beauty
of islands and man alike.
back
to Bland Simpson's book page
|